After finally nearing my destination for art supplies, I encountered a middle-aged man packing up his purchases in his bicycle basket.
"Excuse me," I asked. "Do you know if I'm anywhere close to Fuzhou Lu?"
He spoke a little too quickly for me, but said there were other supply stores a couple blocks away and asked me what type of art supplies I was looking for, motioning to his bag of newly purchased goods. It seemed like he knew the area well and what shops to go to so I told him and asked him if that's what he just bought.
It turned out to be Chinese calligraphy and character writing books for children and a few comic books.
"It's for my eight-year-old daughter!" he said excitedly.
I joked and said that books like that are not just for children, but struggling adults learning Mandarin.
This immediately inspired him to play tour guide. I was very amused by his enthusiasm so I followed him to the bookstore.
"You'll love this place! It's so cheap. You see this sign? It's 10 kuai a kilo! Let me show you!"
It turns out that selling books by weight is the norm here, like dried beans or fruit. The written word is as valuable as its physical mass.
I wasn't exactly looking for calligraphy books on this trip, but I bought four of them and a book of watercolor postcards by an artist named Pan Tianshou.
I also ended up buying a calligraphy brush and ink along with my usual supplies and spent the evening writing postcards home.